Vogue 1042 OOP

When I first bought this pattern it had everything I like in a top. Low neckline and fitted bodice. I'd previously mentioned it on this blog good luck with thst one, commrnted somebody, which wasn't very promising. I knew if I conquered it I would love it but I didn't realise how much



The fabric 100% linen was originally intended for a skirt but when it arrived it was too thin. I decided to  attempt the top but wondered if I could do it justice.
This pattern wasnt easy I made so many adjustments that Ive lost track. I made a sample first( a first for me but it paid off) I was adament I didn't want my bust not sitting in the cups like a bad fit. Looking at the pattern and having a full bust here is how I achieved it.
1. I took a vertical fold out  on the centre front, there was a good two inch gap between the cups on centre front, which I do not have. What I took out I added in my new cup width.
2. I took the measurements for the cup from a bra that fitted me, I added width and lots of depth.  I remade my cup pieces from scratch copying the notches grain etc, and following the bra shape. I reshaped the back strap to stop it gaping  taking in a pleat before cutting out, and I also curved the strap  shoulder seam so it sits on my tiny shoulders.  As my bust is large it didnt leavevmuch room at the armhole edge seem fot my straps to sit. Thus resulting in the straps sitting on the edge of my shoulders, if you catch my drift.  With numerous fittings my fabric stretched at the lower edge and trying to add the peplum which is cut on the straight proved tricky. If I want to nit pick I maybe should have taken an inch off the bodice as it is rolling over, but a narrow belt will rectify that.  I didn't fit the peplum to my hips  as I liked how it looks. I hope to make another but maybe take the bodice  longer and omit the peplum trim.  The skirt I self drafted a few summers ago.

Top   _Vogue 2042.
Skirt _ self drafted

 awkward project pics !!

Vibrant orange Vogue 8750

Its been a while since I posted a project here.  Ive had a lot of problems with the old Bernina.  Sadly after 2 trips to be repaired (the second to try and sort out the mess that the first repair-man made) I have had to accept there is just too much work to be done. The Bernina technician said "It's repairable, but it needs stripping back and rebuilding" which  of course would have cost too much. So out has come the old Janome, and I'm getting used to it again.  It will do the basics and I can sew again, until I can afford a new Bernina.

I picked up a remnant of  vibrant  orange thick wool upholstery material, with a slight boucle texture.   Not a colour I usually wear, but I thought I could get away with it if I wore it away from my face.
I instantly fell in love with the energy in the colour and of course the price £2.00. There was just a metre with a flaw running down the middle hence the price.  There had to be something I could make with it.

The orange is so cheerful just right for the English winters and the "January Blues" (something I don't actually suffer from, but many do).  I struggled for two evenings with my patterns juggling them around, and folding the fabric in different ways. I finally worked out a way I could  squeeze Vogue 8750 making version A.
 


I've made this skirt 3 times now, my first piece posted here. I wasn't happy with the result of it first time, poor fabric choice not enough weight to it. I've since made it in a thicker wool fabric and it worked well.   The thicker fabric definitely shows off the style and top stitching details, I've even mastered the dreaded curves.
I really love this pattern and the finish skirt  and I now find it  easy to make  and it somehow reminds me of 60's retro feel with the curves in it. I'm sure I shall make more.
    

Vogue 8750 and my Contest Mini Wardrobe Final Entry

For anyone that has not been following me I have entered a competition on pattern review to sew 4 items in 1 month and create at least 4 looks.  
So here is my entry picture.

 My little grey skirt my final piece, which I havent really had chance to post about is included.
I like this skirt, despite sewing the curves and constant unpicking. It proved to be the most difficult piece to do out of all the 4 due to the fabric.  The colour goes wonderfully with the top and it has a silver metallic finish, it reacted terribly to heat resulting in me having to press with a warm iron and a very damp cloth. The fabric was a bane it shrivelled, puckered and I am now unpicking my triple top stitching in an effort to make the skirt look less puckered.  Its too late in the day to redo the photos. But I will continue with my unpicking. 

In honesty looking at the pics some outfits work more than others. The shirt, though the fabric is soft it is somehow rigid which effects its overall appearance, for a start it makes me look bigger than I am.  The whole process was stash busting and using existing patterns, but I had to make a few purchases in the end. Yes I am my own worst critic with my handiwork, there is always improvement.  But  I have so enjoyed this contest its been fun and made me think more about what I was making and how it works with other items, instead of just matching available fabric to a pattern, its also been a great motivator for me.

Vogue.7903 Shirt

This is my third piece of the mini wardrobe competition finished.  Its a shirt, and I haven't done collars for a  very long time , so it was a challenge.  I really like this blouse, especially the yoke.  Originally I was going to add a pleated yoke, but my friend thought it may be too rigid, Im so glad I took her advice as the fabric is quite thick, its a cotton sheet that was in my stash originally purchased to back a quilt.  I still wanted to have a go at cutting into my front shirt piece and recreating something different

I had an old top with inserts that had seen its day, so I carefully unpicked them   and worked out how I could use these short pieces on the yoke.  The effort paid off and I like the result. 

 The only thing I dislike are  the cuffs they are very long and loose (and I have thick wrists)  It makes the shirt feel big , in fact I have turned them back on the second picture. I shall have to review that next time I make one.   I even managed to find some vintage buttons with square inserts to match the ladder effect in the yoke.  Overall I think I have made a nice, crisp classic shirt.

Mini wardrobe 2nd Piece New Look 6699 modified

Wow I cannot believe I am now half way through my mini wardrobe contest pieces.  I still have to make my shirt and a button through skirt, before tackling Scary September challenge "my first bra" (I sound like a young teenager again!)

My skirt, was made from an old New Look pattern 6699.  I took the skirt pieces from this pattern and used them.  When my fabric was delivered I laid it next to the top and added the bias tape as I envisaged it looking complete.
 I  then decided it didnt look right the bias was too broad, so I redrafted the skirt, using my 2 skirt pieces as blocks and referring to my metric pattern cutting book by Winifred Aldrich, I managed to make a new skirt pattern from it, I havent done pattern cutting for a long while and I only know basic.
I really like it and I like the piped effect with my new bias binding, I think I shall do more of this. Im not too sure if that horizontal band, if is in the right place, and I have tapered the skirt more this time.  Excuse quality of photo, the light it poor.

Ive only just discovered floral bias binding, Im aware its been around a while be we have only just started having it stocked nearby. I think its lovely and I am getting quite a collection.

Isnt this a great match for colours

For the lining I used a piece of fabric from my stash it was a bit short so I add a ribbon on the bottom.  The fabric is vintage for a car boot sale and I didnt realise that it was faulty until I got it home.  But Im fine with this as the whole exercise of the mini wardrobe was using up my fabrics and only I will see this.

Ive now cut  No. 3 my white shirt pattern long sleeve version Vogue 7903 its ages since I made a shirt and it should be fun.

 I was going to add a pleated yoke, copying a design I had seen

 On asking my sewing buddy her advice, I decided against it. I still liked the idea of a yoke front though.  So it got me thinking, lace? ribbon?  I had unpicked a top that had seen its day, it had lovely inserts on the lower part of the blouse. (I'm a sucker for dismantling clothing for the trims, zips, buttons, only if they are special.)  So I thought I would try them out on a yoke before I cut the rest of the fabric out. Its was very time consuming, and as the pieces were previously cut I was having to place them just so on my yoke template.  But I think it will be work and the efforts worthwhile, and it wont look as ridged as the pleating. Do you like it?

Stash busting part 1

We have been enjoying lovely weather here, and I have been motivated, planning and rearranging things.  I have finally moved the sewing machine back upstairs and this is where it will now stay.  I dont dislike sewing upstairs (apart from the lack of view).  So I thought I would show you where I sew and what I have been planning.  Not alot of space so it wont take long.

Its an old utility oak study desk (circa 1950) with 3 drawers, a handy pull-out shelf, and a lift up extension, that sits in  my bedroom

Up above I keep my sewing notions and overlocker

 and all my fabric ....

 fits into this silver suitcase that lives under my bed.

Ive been rummaging for inspiration

A tailors dummy would be wonderful, but I havent the space.  I do however have Gloria  (a charity shop find)  who  is very slim and flat chested, no use to me.  She lives on  top of my chest of drawers and wears  some of my jewellery.

*****

Over at  Carolyn's  blog she has been doing a paper doll project, it is here were I first came across  Fashionary  (its on my Christmas list).  If you go to their website you can download the templates.  I have found this such fun and very useful for organising, and planning  my stash.  It helps me visualise how the fabric and pattern will work together.  When I trace around the dotted template I try and make the shape more fuller like my own body shape.  As you can see I am imagining my floral jersey dress shortened, worn with a pair or jeans (on the right).

So whats on my to do list, Good question?

 I was all prepared to start cutting out sewing up using my stash of fabrics and  try and make a few outfits for the coming seasons,when I got side tracked and found out there is a mini wardrobe competition over at pattern review.  Basically  4 items in 1 month (September) making at least 4 outfits. Sounds fun. Next week sees the end of the holidays, with new term starting so the timing is right. I do not want to buy any more patterns and fabrics.  I see this competition  as a stash busting exercise.  So we shall see if it is possible to find 4 fabrics that will combine with each other and with the small amount of patterns I own.  Set myself a real challenge there.    To be continued ......

Butterick 5495

It started off so well I really like the pattern on the packet an easy to wear top, then  I found some lovely material.  

I like colour, and this felt so summery and fresh. 

I had been looking at this pattern and had seen many versions where it had been lengthened and made into a dress, I had enough material to do this so I went ahead and lengthen the pattern pieces.

the perfect marriage, or so I thought.

Cataloguing my handmade garments is about sharing the good with the bad, and for me this is definitely the latter.  I just cannot grasp what it is I dislike so much about this dress.

The picture says it all, Its all too much for me.  I dont normally wear dresses this long.  My friend liked the length, but I prefer knee length dresses.  I had to stitch up the front opening as it was way too low, but I think I stitched it to high.  The whole outfit  feels so matronly.  

I have full intention of cutting it down to a long top and wearing layers with it.  I shall follow up with altered dress.

Never mind, onto the next project. I am at present planning my winter wardrobe. More to follow.

Houston, we have a problem

Ive hit abit of a mental block with bra making so I put it aside until I can really focus on it properly.

Its my husbands birthday next month and I have decided to make him a shirt and trousers, (feeling a tad guilty at the amount of space my dressmaking is taking up in our small wardrobe)

Ive had a remnant of dark brown vintage wool suiting in my stash for a while now.  Of course it was a bargain, hence the purchase £1.99, but it isnt my colour.  So I purchased Kwik Sew 3267, and started making these trousers 


I was sewing away, feeling very pleased how easily it was coming together.   The back has welted pockets, I checked and double-checked the positioning of the them sewed, pressed then stood back and looked at my handiwork. Honestly I dont know how this happened.

My first reaction was that the fabric had slipped when I cut it out, but on closer observation the left pocket is dipping  on the outer edge, also the left opening is slightly smaller, about  1/4" inch.  Of course because it is checked fabric, everything looks twice as bad, also if I made the opening bigger it would be on the outer edge where it is short, as the pocket is dipping this would  make it worse. 

From the top edge the darts are in line, Ive measured it all around N.B. Ive never used kwik sew patterns before, and I have never cut a dart open before. 

I dont know if you can see this but the buttonhole below the welt (which I havent cut) is in line with the dart.

This is the left pocket, which as you can see dips more on the left, and is a  little smaller, also not in line with the dart but the same measurement from inner edge.

I know I cannot unpick as experience has told me it would probably end up looking twice as bad. So the question  I put to you is  do I line up the buttonhole with the dart or keep it as it is, which is measured the same distance as the other.  Also because the pocket is slanting the buttonhole looks the same, twice as obvious with the vertical lines of the check, any ideas.  Should  I omit the buttonholes  altogether so as not to draw attention to the error, or would that look silly. Maybe the buttons would distract it all. 

Yes I know  that when they are made up they probably wont look as noticeable as they are now, laid flat and six inches away from my eyes, everything is visible. My  husband cant see the difference, so he wont be too bothered.   But I KNOW its there. Thanks in advance.

Vogue 2960

At last I have finally finished vogue 2960.  Ive been  dragging my heels with this, then last weekend there was no productivity whatsoever as I came down with a rotten cold and aches,  so I just kept myself warm by the fire and watched  a film.

Remember me showing you the 50p duvet and thinking I could make a dress out of it.  Well I have and here it is. 

Excuse the photos today was the first good day weather wise for ages,  It was bitterly cold (they have forecast snow.)

I love vintage so it was only a matter of time before I tackled a vintage pattern, I particularly liked  the scoop neck and bodice on this pattern.  This dress has been very tricky to fit on my little shoulders, I had to reshape the back making the scoop higher, and also take in excess fabric,  then do a full bust adjustment on the front, I think I lost some of that lovely sweep due to the shape of my shoulders, but the dress does stay in place which I am more happier about.

I really like the feel of the dress, It will be so nice and cool in the summer, it feels very feminine.  I wanted a shrug to go with it, and keep with the 50's feel.   So I scoured the charity shops and came across a long cardigan with a tie belt.  I cut it down turned the hem up towards the right side and then added the belt to the edge, covering the raw edges of the hem, I hand stitched this. 

     

    

Much as I like the dress I dont find it very flattering especially the pleats, so I probably wont be making another, I think I prefer straighter dresses, also I think it just looks like a nice summer dress and not at all  like the glamorous vintage picture at all, partly due to these fabulous  50's illustrations, maybe it needs the petticoat?